Home in Madagascar

Akoriaby e!

Today marks one week that I’ve been in my site placement community here in Farafangana. To say that is has been an adjustment would be an understatement. The greetings are different here than they were in Antsirabe (Akoriaby e! Tsara be.), it is so very very hot (Mafanana be ny andro!), and of course, communication is a huge barrier (Tsy mahay Malagasy na Frantsay, azafady fa Anglisy.).

I want to avoid sounding cliché about the wonders of hospitality, but I also want to be clear that any struggles I have been facing have not been because of a lack of care from my host community. I have met so many kind and gracious people who allow me to tag along on errands to the market, point out which hymn we’re singing during church, or smile at me as I sit awkwardly in silence because I don’t know how to say what I want to say. I have had some very low moments, but every time I start to doubt, someone is there to lift me up again.

A few highlights…

·      Last Tuesday, during my very first meal with my host parents (President Benil and Ramatoa*), President asked me what my favorite foods are. I told him that my favorite food in general was ice cream, but my favorite Malagasy foods are vary amin’anana (rice with greens) and tsaramaso (beans). He looked at me and said, “We will have vary amin’anana for breakfast tomorrow.” And we had tsaramaso for lunch.

·      Last Wednesday, my friend Jeanne made sure I didn’t feel alone on my first full day in Farafangana. She took me to the bank with her right after breakfast. Before lunch, she took me to the market and bought me a hat for “when we go walking this afternoon.” And in the afternoon, she took me to the river, and then to her house to meet her family! I am so thankful for Jeanne.

·      Last Thursday, I met my site supervisor, Pastor Frement. He didn’t stop smiling the whole time we were talking, and told me that he and his church were very happy to receive me. He was so patient with me as I worked through my Malagasy (he speaks English very well, so he was able to help me a lot), and he explained what the church’s schedule is. At the end of our meeting, he told me “Aza matahotra. Aza misalala.” Which means, “Don’t be afraid. Don’t be worried.” He said that he was here to help me if I needed anything or had any questions, and his encouragement was exactly what I needed to hear.

·      Friday was my birthday, and it was really, really hard to be away from my family. When I showed up at the President’s house for breakfast, he told me that we would celebrate my birthday in the Malagasy tradition – by eating their duck! “No cake. We kill the duck.” he said. After breakfast, Ramatoa gave me a beautiful handmade bag that she had bought at the market for me. I don’t have words adequate to describe what it felt like to be so loved right away. Malagasy people don’t make a big deal out of birthdays – they don’t have parties or give lots of gifts or anything – so the fact that my host family celebrated me, on only my third full day of being with them, made my heart overflow.

·      Saturday was a good day. I met some of the kids who live at SeJaFa (which is a school for the blind and where my apartment is located), and they let me play with them even though I had no idea what they were playing or saying! My friend Berthin let me run some errands with him; we went to the hardware store and the lumber yard. He wants to learn more English, and I want to learn more Malagasy, so we taught each other on the way! Before dinner, Ramatoa taught me the prayer she prays before every meal. She wrote it down in my copy book, and then asked me to pray for dinner! I had to read it really slowly, and afterwards we all laughed (mihomehy or mikakakaka, two of my favorite words). I will have to practice!

·      Sunday was my first day at my new church, the FLM Fiadanana. During announcements, Pastor Frement had me stand up and introduce myself to the church. He had helped me write it, so when I stood up to read it I was less nervous. Ah, who am I kidding. I was so nervous!! My hands were shaking so badly; I could barely read my paper!! But the congregation all smiled at, laughed with, and applauded for, me. I am going to like being in this congregation.

·      Yesterday was my first day teaching at the primary school. The kids were all very nice, gracious, and patient with me as I tried to teach them English without knowing enough of their language. Afterwards, we went to a worship service to kick off the new school year, and as we were leaving, all of the youngest students bombarded me with handshakes and “Bonjour, Katie!”s. Sometimes now, when I am walking around town, I’ll hear a small voice shout “Katie!” (pronounced kah-tee) and I get to say hi to one of my new students.

Today has been another full day here in Farafangana, and each day has its ups and downs. For example, earlier this afternoon I learned that I am teaching at the secondary school tomorrow instead of next Monday like I thought… So I’m kinda freaking out and need to finish this blog and write a lesson plan!! But a huge high from today was when Ramatoa bought me a salova (a traditional cloth worn around the waist of Malagasy women) and taught me how to wear it. My friend Herman said that I have to stay in Madagascar now, and President Benil said that I am now a Malagasy woman. I don’t think I could have smiled any bigger.

I am so thankful for the love that has been here to embrace me, and I can feel the support coming from my sending communities. Thank you to everyone who has been keeping me in their prayers as I continue this adventure. Know that you all are in my thoughts and prayers every day.

Lots of love,

Katie

*Here in Madagascar, Ramatoa is a name meaning "wife of a pastor." I have met a few Ramatoas, but the one I refer to in this post is my host mom.

Jeanne and I sitting by the river!

Ready for my first day of school and wearing birthday presents from both of my moms!
The necklace from my actual mom, and the bag from my host mom, Ramatoa!

I've got my UNC banner, my guitar, and my water filter. What more could I need??